pretty cool....gotta try it
Just ran across this video on the U-Tubes. Thought it was kind of interesting. I've never seen or heard of anyone using this technique before.
BTW - There's a little "blue" language right at the end of the clip.
pretty cool....gotta try it
Yamaha Stage Custom 6 pc
Assorted Zildjian
Gibraltar hardware
Zildjian laminate sticks
LOTS of snares
AQUARIAN heads
what the ..........
My mind is BLOWN
I've just tried it - well, sort of.
I haven't used my 10 lug Tama Artwood Maple for ages so I thought I'd dig it out and try this tuning trick.
I slackened all tension rods first and adjusted them 'finger tight', I cranked the reso head (new hazy Ambo) as described and all seemed well. Checked it with my Drumdial and it was pretty evenly tightened (reading of 83 - 84) and close to my 'normal' tuning for the reso.
I then started on the batter (new Ambo) - 2 complete full turns, then I checked it. The reading on my Drumdial was close to 90 on all lugs, which is considerably higher than my normal tuning. I was too nervous to go ahead and crank the 12/11 and 1 o' clock lugs I'm pretty sure the head would be toast - the glue made a few grumbling and cracking noises when it was at 90, although after careful checking the head seems fine..
I've backed off the lugs and I'll try again tomorrow (its well after midnight here in the UK and I will want to test it after tuning!), but I think I'll try starting with one and a half turns on each lug on the batter side and tighten the 11/12/1 and loosen the 5/6/7 o'clock lugs as described (checking carefully as I go) to see if I can get the same results at lower tensions.
Perhaps I'm a worry wart - but cranking heads indiscriminately without ever checking sounds like a recipe for disaster...
I noticed the guy had an Evans batter - mine is Remo (but I doubt this should make much difference), one thing I'm not sure of is - do all tension rods have the same thread per inch? Maybe that why he can put 3 full turns on a head without the glue tearing out of the channel or the head going bang!
That was very interesting. I couldn't figure out what he was writing on the head, until I realized he was European (German maybe?). They make their "1" look like "^". My only concern is how the stick feel would be. It looked like he was able to get a bounce out of it. If it works on a snare, why wouldn't it also work on toms? Guess you could just drop the snare wires and see. If so, no reason it wouldn't work for toms as well?
-Brian
"Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"
Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!
"I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham
Very cool,thanks for sharing that
That's crazy. Goes against everything I've been taught on tuning. Definitely trying it.
Tex
I have seen that video posted in a few places and afterwards went and looked at the guys webpage.. I didn't like the snare in the tuning video at all.. and the other videos on his page all sound horrible to me.. Am i the only one? I'm sure his stuff is nice but just didn't like the tuning or sound myself...
A couple of my drum friends argued about the tension warping the drum after time and the head. With all the tension on one side pulling against the other which is loose.
Thoughts on this theory?
I agree with Spaz.
I had a percussion ensemble director in college that actually showed the entire group how to change a head on a snare drum and tune it properly. His lesson was very different from what we see here.
He provided the conventional method of tuning, and he didn't mind cranking the head tight and then backing off to the desired level of tension, whatever that may be.
He always said that the cracking noises had better be there or something is wrong with the glue in the hoop.
Gretsch USA & Zildjian(What Else Would I Ever Need ?)
I like it...............going to try it.
I was thinking the same thing. I don't know how this can be good for the shell. You'd think having pressure on one side would cause it to warp over time.
I am trying to research if a shell will warp if the head has more tension on one side. So far, I have found nada.
Last edited by Markadiddle; 08-18-2015 at 09:21 AM.
Whacky! The drum not only sounded dampened/muffled but also very muted and quiet.
Why not tune normally and just dampen to taste.
I agree with the above concerns that this constitutes drum and head abuse and in my opinion yields negative results.
I just threw it out there to get opinions. Wanted to see if anyone has ever heard of or tried this before. I am certainly not condoning this tuning method whatsoever.
Last edited by Markadiddle; 08-18-2015 at 11:54 AM.
I'm not crazy about those extreme uneven tensions on the shell and hoop. In fact....I'm sure some players here with entry level snare drums who may be eager to try this are going to ruin their tension rods and lugs, if they haven't already by trying this. (oh,,,it may work for a while, but when your head gets a little worn and stretched out, your going to push those lugs and tension rods to their limits!)
Although - I have to admit I frequently drop my lower lugs down a turn or two in the middle of a gig several times to accommodate the song. But only on the 6 and 8 o'clock positions.
His method seems a little extreme. But I'm sure it does work, but I GUARANTEE it's going to damage someones snare drum.
Caveat Emptor !
"The problem with information on the Internet is that you can not validate it's authenticity. " -Abraham Lincoln
SILVERFOX DRUMSTICKS & SOULTONE CYMBALS Endorsing Artist.
I tried again this afternoon.
This claim of 'no overtones' didn't work on my snare, overtones seem less present when the lugs are cranked evenly.
If I need to change my snare tuning on the fly I think either tightening or loosening each lug by a quarter or half a turn as appropriate gives better results - admittedly it takes a little longer but I wouldn't have any concerns about trashing the heads, stripping out lugs or warping the shell.
Having nothing better to do I went ahead and tried this on a Pearl Sensitone Steel snare . I like it . I don't think I'll be tuning all my snares this way..yet . I am going to use this on my gigs for the rest of the month as the feel of it is a bit different than I'm use to . I like that I can change the tuning on the fly , and the decay . Going to play with this for a bit , so far I can see the possibilities... cool .
Rudy .
Well....I learned a lot about inexpensive drums when I worked (taught) at a music store. These kids kept bringing in their snare drums with broken lugs - I'd fix them and could see what was causing it. It's uneven tuning....just like this. I must have fixed 50 of them. All the same thing. Broken lug guts and stripped rods.
It probably wont hurt a decent - more expensive snare drum at first, but over time it WILL warp the hoop. I guarantee it. Then after that....the shell is next.
There's a reason why we tune drums evenly...and have been doing so for so many years. It's more than just sound principal - it's for the health of the drum too.
"The problem with information on the Internet is that you can not validate it's authenticity. " -Abraham Lincoln
SILVERFOX DRUMSTICKS & SOULTONE CYMBALS Endorsing Artist.
it seems this is his way to get different sounds for different types of music on the fly but who'd want to hear the snare being retuned between songs or every other song. So I think this is mainly a trick for the studio or practice. Doesn't seem too healthy for the drum or head.
I know with my style of playing the head would be toast in a matter of minutes having the bottom three at wrinkle.
Einstein-ish ha that's about right
Last edited by slinky; 08-18-2015 at 12:34 PM.
RDM/Damage Poets
UFiP TAMAHA Zildjian
REGAL TiP
AQUARIAN
Having read all the replies before actually watching the video, I was ready to dismiss this guy's technique out of hand. I'm glad I watched the video. So, here's my take on it: 1)You can't argue with the sound, nor with the fast transition from one tuning extreme to the other; 2)I would not dare to use this method on any snare drum that has less than first-quality lugs and/or hoops of less thickness than 2.3mm. Even some of the lighter cast hoops may be damaged. The best bet would be to use the heavier versions of S Hoops. But, using a snare drum of sufficient heft, this method may be of tremendous use to those who need to change snare drum sounds between songs. I can see this method being of use even to those of us who typically use only one snare drum sound during all our performances. Imagine playing "Owner of a Lonely Heart" with it's required tight snare tone, then moving immediately into "Sittin' On The Dock of the Bay," where a looser, much warmer tone is more appropriate. Using this guy's method, the snare could be changed in less time than it takes the guitar player to tune up - again. I like it. I'm going to try it. Thanks for posting.
GeeDeeEmm
You don't have to go through all the steps that this guy does to achieve this "quick change" on a snare.
Just a simple turn or two on a lug or two near the bottom will achieve the same results.
I've been doing it for years and years.
If you look at most pics of me playing - you'll see a key on a tension rod at the ten o'clock position. I use this key to quickly loosen and tighten a rod at the 6 & 8 o'clock positions so I can have a snappy snare or a smooshy snare.. Takes two seconds.
(this is why I know it's going to bend hoops - because I've experienced it and have been bending them for years. lol)
"The problem with information on the Internet is that you can not validate it's authenticity. " -Abraham Lincoln
SILVERFOX DRUMSTICKS & SOULTONE CYMBALS Endorsing Artist.
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