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Thread: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

  1. #1

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    Default Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    There aren't any companies that close that do re-edging and I'd like to recut two bass drums which adds up to about $150 in shipping. Because of this, I'm considering cutting my bearing edges myself.

    I've practiced cutting the edges before with a router and router table, but I think one of the most important parts is flattening the edge very precisely. Does anyone know of a practical way of getting a precise flat sanding surface? I'm almost considering buying a granite block but I'm not sure what size I would need to get for a 22" bass drum. They get pricey over 12"x18". Does anyone know if you can buy mdf+melamine coated table/surface that are very flat? Some type of tooling grade would be nice.

    Next I'm trying to find some pressure sensitive adhesive backed sand paper. Anyone know of a good place for that?

    Thanks,
    Ian

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    I've used a 24"x24" piece of plate glass covered in sandpaper. I use regular sand paper and spray the back with Elmers spray adhesive. Works like a charm and only costs about $25 total. The plate glass is not perfectly "flat"......BUT, it's as close as most drum manufacturers get. Within about .002"-.003", as measured with a machinists edge. The key is to leave the shell in one spot on the glass and spin it like a steering wheel. That way, it doesn't matter as much (the bearing edge is always being referenced to the same spot on the glass at all times). If you color the edge with a Black magic marker occasionally, you can watch the high & low spots as they are sanded out. I then re-sand the bevel back on the edge with sandpaper wrapped around a drum stick. I've done 3 complete drum kits this way. They ALL turned out great and tune just as easy & evenly as a new one. It isn't as precise as having it professionally re-cut, but it's cheap and very effective. The results are more than acceptable for most practical purposes. I have a DIY thread posted that shows how I do it.
    Last edited by N2Bluz; 11-03-2015 at 11:14 PM.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    what he said N2Bluz
    So whats so wrong with laughing. Some need to learn to laugh

  4. #4

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    The main problem I'm having is while tuning the bass drums. I have something similar to a DrumDial that I made for measuring head tension. I will get all the lugs to finger tight, then start evening them out with the tuner. Some lugs will be completely loose and still have the highest tension. I will tighten an adjacent lug and it will tighten one of these problem lug spots. I'm pretty sure this is from flatness problems.

    I could take a look for glass, but I think it might be hard to find something that I know has a tight tolerance. I'm looking for getting a used 18"x24" granite surface (grade B is flattened to 0.0002" or so) if I can pick one up. Hopefully around $60. Otherwise, I'm thinking I might get some machined surface from Mcmaster-Carr. I can get a 1/4" Delrin sheet 12"x24" with +0.005" thickness tolerance for $57. I'm not sure if that will be stiff enough.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    Are you having the same results with different brands of heads? Some heads don't play well with some shells. Especially if you have a wrapped covering.

    Be sure you explore that first. A $35 dollar head can be much less expensive and permanent than going through what you are attempting.
    Signature here

  6. #6

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    Don't knock yourself out thinking you need machinist tolerances. You don't. I good flat surface, even a flat discarded kitchen counter with the cheap laminate can work more than good enough. Just relax on the downward pressure and let the sandpaper do the work on the drum. Excess force pushing down on the shell will cause you more grief, just take your time spinning it. Use a bingo dabber all over the edge, then spin a little more, this will give you a clear guide of how much angle needs to be added to get the edge back. A round sanding drum in a drill will make quick work narrowing the flat edge you made on the sanding block.
    click to see my kit re-veneer/finish
    http://www.drumchat.com/showthread.p...168#post379168

  7. #7

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    Quote Originally Posted by Bish View Post
    Are you having the same results with different brands of heads? Some heads don't play well with some shells. Especially if you have a wrapped covering.

    Be sure you explore that first. A $35 dollar head can be much less expensive and permanent than going through what you are attempting.
    After finding a matching bass, I now have 3 Sonor Bass drums. All three of them seem to have similar issue. I've tried a variety of heads over the years with similar results, but I like the sound I'm getting out of the Remo PS3 heads. It's just that it could be a little better if it was easier to tune and a little even. I can tell the difference in the Toms when they are tuned better but they are a little tighter and are for whatever other reason, easier to tune.

    The other problem is the reso head I had on the second kick. It's been completely flat and I thought it was a poorly flattened edge. I just got the third bass all put together and the reso head fits equally awful, preventing it from resonating at all. I just ordered a new head so I'm hoping that problem will be fixed.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    Quote Originally Posted by Remobeater View Post
    After finding a matching bass, I now have 3 Sonor Bass drums. All three of them seem to have similar issue. I've tried a variety of heads over the years with similar results, but I like the sound I'm getting out of the Remo PS3 heads. It's just that it could be a little better if it was easier to tune and a little even. I can tell the difference in the Toms when they are tuned better but they are a little tighter and are for whatever other reason, easier to tune.

    The other problem is the reso head I had on the second kick. It's been completely flat and I thought it was a poorly flattened edge. I just got the third bass all put together and the reso head fits equally awful, preventing it from resonating at all. I just ordered a new head so I'm hoping that problem will be fixed.
    I've found that a drum dial of any flavor isn't as accurate on a bass head as it is on toms and snare drums.

    The first thing I do is put the head on and make sure it sits flat and that I can spin it easily. Then when I put the hoop on and mount the tension claws I get them spun down just before I can't turn them with my fingers. I also do complete opposite sides together so the head will go on evenly. Then just before snug I spin the head and ensure it'll still spin. Usually that is just to make sure the logo is even/level. Then I usually go 1/2 to 1 complete turn of the drum key from snug, again turn opposites at the same time. I never go around in a circle.

    If I still have wrinkles I'll go 1/4 turns after that until the wrinkles just go away. I'm done.

    If you do that and still have questions, PM me or post them here. I'm sure between all the talent on this forum we can figure out what is going on.
    Signature here

  9. #9

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    Try swapping hoops and see if the issue is correlated to any particular hoop. I've found bass drum hoops can be pretty picky. Especially thinner wood hoops. Also, measure the shell to see how out-of-round it is.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    Quote Originally Posted by N2Bluz View Post
    Try swapping hoops and see if the issue is correlated to any particular hoop. I've found bass drum hoops can be pretty picky. Especially thinner wood hoops. Also, measure the shell to see how out-of-round it is.


    Excellent points. Have you tested the hoops for flat as well? I never thought about them having an effect.
    Signature here

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    My '63 Slingies kick is so out of round I use strips of foam core board fit between the head and the shell edges...still a punchy kick. Bearing edges barely make a difference on kicks IMO.
    SONOR 6 pc Special Edition 3007's red maple, old Pearl Brass 14x6 FF snare, Yamaha Tour Custom maple 8 pc., Tama 4 pc., honey amber B/B, Ludwig Supralite chrome 14x6.5 steel snare, Paiste, Saluda & Zildjian
    Loaned out Slingerland upgraded 4 pc 1963 black, wrapped maple + 14" Pearl birch FT
    The Almighty Speed King pedal, Speed Cobra, Sonor Single

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  12. #12

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    Default Re: Flatning/Truing bearing edges

    Before recutting the bearing edges - have you checked the tension at the CENTRE of each head if you are trying to get a pair of bass drums to the same tune?

    I use a drum dial frequently, but sometimes it is easy to fixate on achieving the same reading at each lug and overlook checking the centre. Some heads can have a reading of say 75 at the lugs and a considerably lower reading at the centre, especially when are well used. These heads may sound good and be dent and scar free but can be more worn than they appear. If you fixate on same lug readings and overlook the centre you will probably get different tunings on 2 drums of the same model and size

    Try putting your dial away and just try to tune by ear - the bearing edges on each drum may not be exactly the same - some drums may sound good at 1 turn past wrinkle, another may need more or less turns to get the same sound.

    If you are getting high readings on a single lug and it sounds higher pitched even when it has no tension, then you probably have a edge problems - but (like others have already recommended), I would try a different head and a hoop from a different drum and check the shell for roundness before surgery.

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