Because after reading Binnies post I decided to try as I had a box of Garden potash in my shed - but no garden! Filled a bowl with boiling water, heated the cymbal in my oven - immersed it, repeated a couple of time. Minimal effort - no expense. If it looks cruddy this bogus rust will clean off in minutes.
I have thought of using lacquer but the only thing I can get is for automotive aerosol, not sure if its the right stuff and if wrong it will be difficult to remove.
I don't think you are aware of the draconian laws in this country regarding 'substances'.
I buy lots of old vinyl records but am not allowed to buy isopropyl alcohol to clean them - well I can but at £5 for 50 mils - which will clean a couple - it is sold at £7.50 a litre but I cant get it as I don't have a licence. I am allowed to kill myself with rotgut cider or spirits though...
Both you and N2Bluz have equally valid points. I did it as I actually had the correct chemical to hand and it took no effort or expense.
I think your original suggestion - once the lacquer is removed nature will do the work is the best answer. I wanted to see how using corrosive agents (also something you mentioned earier in this thread) would work - it can work well and its very fast.
My observations from this little experiment is - yes it works and its fast, but for the best results, time and patience are the best answer. Nature is better than quick fix.
I sound tested them and the nasty high frequencies aren't noticeable - but they will always be starter/intermediate B8 hats. They sound ok though but not great, they will never be confused for something like vintage Avedis.
I learned a little bit, minimal expense, a little bit of work - and it was more enjoyable than TV.
Ship them to me and I'll use them for practice. Our bass player and 2 guitar players chain smoke during practice, so in about 3 weeks they will be good and "seasoned".....just like cymbals used in smoke-filled bar gigs 20yrs ago. LOL
That's the nice thing about the Sabian B8 line. They are acceptable quality but plentiful and cheap (at least around here). They make excellent Guiny pigs for cymbal experimentation.
-Brian
"Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"
Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!
"I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham
anyone ever thought. "Hmmm how can I add to the bell quickly....Maybe if I got to an auto shop they will powder coat the underside of the bell for me...."
$5
-Steven
[QUOTE=N2Bluz;587872]Ship them to me and I'll use them for practice. Our bass player and 2 guitar players chain smoke during practice, so in about 3 weeks they will be good and "seasoned".....just like cymbals used in smoke-filled bar gigs 20yrs ago. LOL
Good one! However, I suspect that the cost of shipping will be far more than the cost of a good set of used ones. If you look back through the post you'll see that I 'reduced' them with a sanding/grinding attachment in a power tool!
Doubt they'll last long enough to become seasoned now. Funny thing is I replied to a post about a guy who 'modifies' old broken/cheapo cymbals using angle grinders/power tools and I said he was a butcher. Less than one month later I find myself doing the same thing.
Crispy speak with forked tongue.....
All the B8-type cymbals I've ever had, I got in trades (except for one Ozone) and I've sold all but one, a 14" Zildjian ZHT crash that is quite heavy and ringy. I drilled it and added a single rivet, and now it's great when played softly with a finger, mallet, brush etc. But that is something that can be removed and the cymbal could be sold later if I felt the need to do so. I don't ever see myself trying the modifications in this thread because a lot of them would affect the value of the cymbal, but it's still interesting to read the results of others trying it out!
I'm sure some will look at the things I do and say the same, LOL. But....everything I mess with is old bottom line stuff that no one wants. If I can keep myself entertained, learn something new and end up with something unique....then to me, it's way more fun than just buying the good stuff. There's a satisfaction in playing something that you "made your own", and that helps keep the passion for involvement alive. It brings a whole different aspect of personal expression into the mix....not just the music, but now also the instrument.
Unfortunately, I don't think my wife fully appreciates my viewpoint. I think she's getting tired of a basement full of old drum parts and a garage full of old project cars and parts, LOL.
-Brian
"Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"
Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!
"I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham
I have really enjoyed reading this thread
I like the b8's. In my opinion, it depends on the size of the room you are playing in. In smaller rooms (like a jam space or say a small coffee house) I think they sound good. But once you get in the bigger spaces, not so much. I have a bunch of them and have no intention of getting rid of them.
And the 20" b8 ride, I have been using the same one for a while now and will probably continue to. It is on my main kit. I have noticed many drummers like the b8 ride as well.
B8 = 8% tin.
Examples of malleable bronze cymbals include: Harpy H, Meinl One of a Kind, Meinl Custom and Amun, Meinl Lightning and Raker, Meinl Classics and some Generation X, Meinl Trooper and Cadet, Orion Solo Pro and Solo Pro Master, Orion Viziuss, Paiste 2002 and Giant Beat, Paiste 802 and Alpha, Paiste 502 and some Exotic Percussion, Pearl Pro, Meinl MCS, Sabian B8 and B8 Pro, Sabian Pro Sonix, Sabian APX, UFIP Tiger, UFIP Supernova, Zildjian Planet Z, ZBT, ZXT, and Zildjian Pitch Black.
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