That's a really interesting idea Russ. I never would've though of something like that. My kit sounds fantastic right now (for a cheap kit, that is), but next time I decide to tune it up I'll keep your method in mind.
for any interested, I believe I may have created an effective tuning system. allow me to explain.
for awhile, each and every day i went through life playing constantly thinking my drums are out of tune, and most likely are, but just as soon started trying all kinds of methods, read a lot about tuning itself, followed keen advice and still have a lot to learn, but have stumbled upon an interesting, but time consuming method. i warn you, if you try this it might lead to inevitable madness as its a very distinct method, but its one that worked on my kit thus far, even though its still in the experimental stage.
1), remove the heads of course.
2), clean the drums of dust and debris.
3), starting with the reso head, place the head on.
4), finger tighten each till it touches the counterhoop.
(sounds basic so far right? well not for long.)
5), when each rod is finger tightened fully, start turning evenly, and stop when you reach a certain point, which is determined by the NUMBER OF THREADS/BARS on your tension rod that are sticking out of the lug.
6), you are done when the number of the bars on each rod sticking out of the lug is exactly the same.
7), repeat for the other side until all the rods have the same number of bars sticking out, thus indicating even lug tension.
in conclusion, I realize this will not equal perfect tuning, but it has worked extremely well for me so far. without tapping, using a dial, or a torque key/memory key, dts, you too can perfect the numerics system. be warned though its very specific and can make you go crazy, but i have found it to be very effective on my kit because its the only method thus far that i could feel sure of because i could get an accurate reading without the need for any devices. if you decide to try the numerics system, be prepared to spend a lil while more, but assuming all your tension rods are equal length, lug tension should be even and from there you can go by ear if you like, but i havent had to so far. anyways, i just thought id share my ideas and i hope it can help someone else as frustrated as i used to be. if you have any more questions or comments please feel free to comment.
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That's a really interesting idea Russ. I never would've though of something like that. My kit sounds fantastic right now (for a cheap kit, that is), but next time I decide to tune it up I'll keep your method in mind.
Matt
Interesting idea Russ, although I'm sure it will take quite a bit longer to count the threads on each lug. I'm sure this would be very difficult to do as you set up for a gig, but at home it might be good as you start training your ear. Eventually, you would need ween yourself off this method so that you can learn to rely on your ears.
Just my thoughts.
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In theory, if everything is true on the kit this would produce if nothing else an even tensioned set of heads.
I tune by ear, each drum has a sweat spot. Simply strike the drum with a stick while you tighten and loosen a lug, you will hear it. Then tune the rest to match.
I tend to tune the batter for pitch and the reso for the decay effect I like.
But this is what works for me.
i was doing it that way for years, at least with this method im 100% sure. its like turning your tension rods into a more effective drum dial, you cant lose
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alright i got an update on this method, in case anyone is curious. im using 10 bars on the snare, 11 on the reso- this seems to work best for me so far and produces a tight sorta sound; for all the toms im using 8 for top and bottom, which although somewhat of a high tension, finally makes them not sound dead, and im overall pleased with it although today im going to raise the reso's to 9 because of the difference in plies and texture of my drumheads; the bass drums i havent done yet, but i will post my results as soon as i get them done as well. i did actually tap in front of the lugs after i finished, and each lug definitely had the same pitch on it, so it definitely works, its just a matter of finding how many bars gets you where you wanna be on one lug, and then copy it with the rest. if anyone else goes for this method, let me know how it works for you and what you think
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Besides being way too lazy to go this length, I'm not sure I would be able to see well enough to count the individual threads on lug. Besides, with a 7 piece set, that's just too much time. But, if you're that patient, it sounds like it would give you at least a decent start.
Robert
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You do realize that you are still not precise? You are assuming that each screw and lug have the same stating point. could be off almost a whole turn between lugs due to lack of consistency of the thread start point on each screw/lug.. these are not done to milspec. nor are they meant to be. It is a drum at low frequency, get used to it.
Agian, way overkill for what you get out of it,
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Waste of time.
Its very very easy to hear when onbe point of your drum is in tune with another. Its just like tuning a guitar you'll hear that warble in sound. Once the warble is gone the spots are in tune.
Its tuning a drum, its not that hard.
Why don't you try using a ruler or something to measure the length of the thread rather than counting them... Even an old drumstick with some markings on it would work...
Having said that, don't get too lazy and use this method for the rest of your life, learn to use your ears to tune - it gets easier every time you do it and there is no fancy substitute for it - not even a drum dial or anything fancy like that.
hummm screw will not be precise because scew are not the same and they are loose (bolt and screws) so it make diferent tension on the skin
i think i will continue whith my homemade drum dial
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well, i tapped in front of each lug, they were 100% on the money. i was considering taking a sharpie and coloring in the exact thread of the rod that is number 8 or 10 from the bottom for easy future reference. all my tension rods are exactly the same measurement with exeption to bass drum, and i personally measured them each, as fanatical as it sounds- but this is a sure thing and the only way ive found of being guaranteed to get in tune every time
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I think the logic makes sense, but there are way too many assumptions that have to be made. Mainly involving tolerances...
Lug distance on the drum relative to the bearing edge
Perfect seating of your drum head
Evenness of the drum head collar (all around)
Equal length of each tension rod
Thread tolerance
Etc
Add all those little things together, and you probably aren't really "even" with each lug tension. But hey, if it works for you... it's certainly a start! And if you like how it sounds, then go with it until you find something better, or your ear tells you otherwise...
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In the excellent DVD: Drum Tuning System, Mike Michalkow does exactly as you explained with the exceptions: 1. be sure that you tighten the lugs in a cross-over fashion to even out the pressure on the drum head and, know that there will be at least one lug that is looser than the other as you do this. 2. Rather than measure the height of each lug, simply begin tuning with a 1/2 turn on each lug, followed by a 1/4 turn on each lug and fine tune each by 1/8 as needed. Once you get in the habit of doing this it doesn't take as long as it may seem.
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Frank what he is saying is the same as we tune no? plus his way does not allow for bent or off hoops. I think with cast hoops this would work better. A lot of trouble just to tune.Place head on finger tighten then 1/4 to 1/2 turn till you get what you like taping at each lug simple and easy. IMHO But Thanks for sharing and if it works for you then its great
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