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Thread: Lug to Shell Tightness

  1. #1

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    Default Lug to Shell Tightness

    I played my kit without hearing protection for this first time in awhile yesterday and I noticed a rattling buzz in my floor tom. I couldn't pinpoint the source, but figured something was loose. I removed the batter head and tightened each lug mounting screw and the tom leg mounting bracket screws. To my surprise each and every one had significant room to be tightened.

    I tightened everything down with about as much torque as I felt safe without stripping anything. My rattle is gone, but I wonder should I have cinched everything up so tight? The kit is only a couple of months old so I'm thinking they come from the factory with little tightening torque on the screws. Is it OK to ratchet the screws tightly or do the lugs need a little room to breath on the shell?

  2. #2
    ThePloughman Guest

    Default Re: Lug to Shell Tightness

    Put a Ratchet on those and you are begging for trouble. They are small screws, chances are the screw bosses arent all that big either. A tad bit past hand tight is plenty good.

  3. #3

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    Thank you PM. Sounds about how I left them. Pretty tight with Phillips head by hand.

  4. #4

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    Figuring that your kit probably came over on a freightliner ship..and spent a great deal of time in transit..its no wonder that things loosen up.
    As a rule of thumb with a new kit or at head change time, I bust out the stubby philps screwdriver and snug up lug / bracket / receiver mount screws.

    that can be maddening finding the source of the rattle and buzz,

  5. #5

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    I agree with Ploughman, they don't really need to be all that tight and if you break a screw off they can be a real pain to get out and it can easily ruin the lug. Also if it is a wrapped kit over tightening the lugs can distort the wrap.

  6. #6

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    Yep, break out the stubby philips every time you change heads. I actually had the head of a screw broke off of a lug holder on my 10" tom when they first arrived. Sigler sent me out a replacement that came in 2 days.
    Custom Classic Pro Maple 6
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by wolvie56 View Post
    Yep, break out the stubby philips every time you change heads. I actually had the head of a screw broke off of a lug holder on my 10" tom when they first arrived. Sigler sent me out a replacement that came in 2 days.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Lug to Shell Tightness

    blue loctite
    MAPEX MAFIA

  9. #9
    ThePloughman Guest

    Default Re: Lug to Shell Tightness

    Is blue the permanent stuff?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThePloughman View Post
    Is blue the permanent stuff?
    yes, red is semi permanent!

  11. #11
    ThePloughman Guest

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    Permenant wouldnt be a good idea.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThePloughman View Post
    Permenant wouldnt be a good idea.
    agreed +1

  13. #13

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    When checking the screws inside the drums I use a small electric shop screwdriver with torque settings. This way once the torque is set you can go around all the screw in a jiff without over tightening and damaging anything.

  14. #14

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    First thing I do when I get new drums (new new or new used) is check all the fittings for snugness. I also recheck during head changes. I have found loose screws (to a degree) on almost every drum. Kick drum leg mounts, lug casings, etc. If you plan on doing any studio work, it can be a good time to go ahead and strip off the hardware, check for any worn inserts (especially the little black rubber gaskets, for lack of a better and/or more accurate term). Then pack the casings with muffling (cotton or??). It shouldn't have any negative effect on your gear and might save you from hunting for that evasive rattle that can only be heard during playback. Also, lube your rods (judiciously so as not to get lube on the outside of your drums to attract dirt and grime). Be aware however that while making the tension rod turning more fluid will assist in tuning, you also need to watch for those rods backing out and detuning your drum over time when playing...unless you play SONOR!

  15. #15

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    Buddy Holley had a problem........ The end result was crickets.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by bassist learning drums View Post
    Buddy Holley had a problem........ The end result was crickets.
    Thats a good one but its Holly

  17. #17

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    When tightening the screws on the inside, be careful not to tighten them too much. If so, you run the risk of cracking the inner ply right around the lug, or leg bracket if it is a floor tom.
    Gretsch - Tama - Pearl - Sabian - Zildjian - Stagg - Evans - Vater - Gibraltar

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by areFish View Post
    I played my kit without hearing protection for this first time in awhile yesterday and I noticed a rattling buzz in my floor tom. I couldn't pinpoint the source, but figured something was loose. I removed the batter head and tightened each lug mounting screw and the tom leg mounting bracket screws. To my surprise each and every one had significant room to be tightened.

    I tightened everything down with about as much torque as I felt safe without stripping anything. My rattle is gone, but I wonder should I have cinched everything up so tight? The kit is only a couple of months old so I'm thinking they come from the factory with little tightening torque on the screws. Is it OK to ratchet the screws tightly or do the lugs need a little room to breath on the shell?
    The process of assembly may be the culprit, often i see drumsets & Latin drums that are new yet need to be hand tightened before use to insure hardwares do not shift & scratch the shells or parts end up comming loose durring performance. BUT do not use automotive tools...just hand tools are adequate for hand torque sufficient to lock the position of parts. In all cases....the tunning systems of our drums were designed durring the days of Calf skin heads or thinner rawhides in the case of congas / bongos etc. Now we use higher tensioned plastic heads & thicker skins / hides and the shells, rims etc are sometimes ill suited. In the old days, rims were flexible to allow fine tunning of the skins & things warped out of shape. When new skins were mounted, new rims were as well. Now...new heads requiure perfect rims to function as the head was designed for. It is important to keep an eye on all the fundamental parts & functions of drum hardwares since they work in tandem w/ each other. Learn to fine tune your drums...keep them clean & not banging into things etc...be experimental w/ head weights & types. " Care & Feeding of Drums !

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