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Thread: Cleaning lacquer shells

  1. #51

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Wright View Post
    I use one type of wax on my kit: Collinite 845 wax - - - it was developed and used by Electric Power companies to keep their glass insulators clean and to reduce arcing. When I first got my Oak Customs, I applied 2 coats of Collinite 845 wax to them and I could see a slight increase in the "deep shine" and that was 2 years ago and the wax keeps the dance floor wax from becoming "attached" to the kit and to the hardware. I use one of my cotton Tee-shirts to wipe them down before each gig. Not trying to "pitch" anyones brand ...just sayin that this "Type" of wax will help prevent dance floor wax and or cigarette smoke from "attaching" to your lacquered finish. Just be sure to use a clean soft cotton rag to wipe them down when they get that first light "coating" of whatever. Just my personal preference ~
    Quote Originally Posted by Commander View Post
    Interesting to see this product show up on a drum site. I have used this product for years to keep my 45 year-old fiberglass boat looking good. People often ask what I use. No other wax shines as well or holds up as long.
    Cheers!
    Yep, I've used this wax for years myself. Good stuff for sure!

    FYI, if you didn't know already, they also have a Metal Wax that cleans and protects chrome that also works great on hardware.
    "it is what it is"

    "Dont rent anything you cant afford to burn in the backyard while drunk." - ThePloughman

  2. #52

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by drumsetsnide View Post
    As for wax, a quality carnuba wax (Mothers is what the drum shop here uses) is recommended because not only does it produce a nice shine but it has conditioners in it for the lacquer.
    Not to mention that it will provide UV protection that I like to have on my kit due to gigging outside at car shows, festivals, parties, etc. on a frequent basis. Using car care products may sound a bit extreme to some, but it's all relative to what environment your kit is being exposed to and the level of protection that you want.
    "it is what it is"

    "Dont rent anything you cant afford to burn in the backyard while drunk." - ThePloughman

  3. #53

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    It's definitely not uncommon to use car care products on instruments, although there are things to be wary of. I know quite a few people who have used Zymol's all natural car wax products to treat their instruments. The cool thing is that Zymol has become aware of this practice and they now actually have a line of products specifically for instruments, including drums. They have a product called "solo" that's designed for cleaning shells, and they're working on developing new products for taking care of cymbals. Just like their car products, everything is made with all natural ingredients. The best part is that it not only cleans and shines your shells, but it actually helps preserve the wood and finish so it holds its integrity over the years.

  4. #54

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by JaminTravis View Post
    It's definitely not uncommon to use car care products on instruments, although there are things to be wary of. I know quite a few people who have used Zymol's all natural car wax products to treat their instruments. The cool thing is that Zymol has become aware of this practice and they now actually have a line of products specifically for instruments, including drums. They have a product called "solo" that's designed for cleaning shells, and they're working on developing new products for taking care of cymbals. Just like their car products, everything is made with all natural ingredients. The best part is that it not only cleans and shines your shells, but it actually helps preserve the wood and finish so it holds its integrity over the years.
    I didn't know this about Zymol. Thanks for the info!

    And of course...Welcome to DC!
    "it is what it is"

    "Dont rent anything you cant afford to burn in the backyard while drunk." - ThePloughman

  5. #55

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Thanks for the welcome. Glad to be here!

  6. #56

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    All I've ever used to clean my kits be they lacquer or wrap is a bit of warm water and a mild dish soap. I put a bit of warm water into a bowl and add a couple drops of the soap. I remove all the rims and heads from my kit. I take a very soft cloth , wet it, then ring it out so it's just damp. Then I wipe down the entire drum, shell and lugs and then dry with another very soft dry cloth immediately. for the larger drums, I wipe half and then dry and continue to the next half. Once all the shells are done I do the same to the rims, wipe with damp, and immediately dry. I clean my rack tubes and cymbal arms the same way.

    It's a slow long process especially for me having a huge kit, but I enjoy doing it. It's an all day affair. I put on my favorite play list and go at it.

    Once the kit is clean I put a small amount of grease on the end of each tension rod as I put the heads back on and tune them up. I also make sure my pedals are in perfect running order at this time as well. I check all adjustments and lube the pedal as necessary.

  7. #57

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by NPYYZ View Post
    All I've ever used to clean my kits be they lacquer or wrap is a bit of warm water and a mild dish soap. I put a bit of warm water into a bowl and add a couple drops of the soap. I remove all the rims and heads from my kit. I take a very soft cloth , wet it, then ring it out so it's just damp. Then I wipe down the entire drum, shell and lugs and then dry with another very soft dry cloth immediately. for the larger drums, I wipe half and then dry and continue to the next half. Once all the shells are done I do the same to the rims, wipe with damp, and immediately dry. I clean my rack tubes and cymbal arms the same way.

    It's a slow long process especially for me having a huge kit, but I enjoy doing it. It's an all day affair. I put on my favorite play list and go at it.

    Once the kit is clean I put a small amount of grease on the end of each tension rod as I put the heads back on and tune them up. I also make sure my pedals are in perfect running order at this time as well. I check all adjustments and lube the pedal as necessary.
    I can't get that kind of time around my house anymore. LOL.

  8. #58

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    It's almost time for my kit to get stripped down and thoroughly cleaned. I remember this post back a few months ago and now it has popped up again. Guess it may be a subtle reminder for me to get the soft diapers, metal polish and wax out.

    It's an all-day process for ma as well; 7 drums, a few snares and 8 cymbals and a hi hat makes for a lot of pieces to clean but it's fun and well worth it.
    Last edited by drumsetsnide; 11-19-2012 at 07:14 PM.
    TAMA- '2018 Star Walnut, ‘99 Starclassic Performer, '89 Granstar, ‘93 Rockstar
    Gretsch- 1963 Round Badge
    Zildjian
    Remo
    Vic Firth
    Speed Cobra Double Pedal Blackout Edition
    Speed Cobra Hi Hat
    Hardware- TAMA Roadpro
    Snare Drums- various TAMA, Gretsch, Ludwig, Leedy
    Mic's- Sennheiser, Shure, AKG

  9. #59

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    from a good source..

    Polyester Finishes
    Cost: $$$$$

    Polyester, not to be confused with polyurethane, is what is used by most professional guitar builders and drum manufacturers. It is a POST catalyzed finished, meaning you must add components to the basic resin in order for the finish to harden. For some polyesters, you add a cobalt chemical and MEKP (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide, same stuff that is used in fiberglass boat building). Polyester is very expensive and tricky to work with. I must add here that I owe thanks to Bill Detamore at Pork Pie for his guidance and advice when I first started using it at Black Swamp.

    Polyester has a very high solids content, is able to be built up to a very thick film, yet does not shrink over time (when mixed properly). It fully cures within 24 hours. This thick film lets you sand the finish smooth and buff to a high gloss luster. The finish is extremely heat resistant, so it can withstand the heat created by industrial buffing machines (also called a buffing jack). Polyester is much more heavy bodied than other finishes, but can still be sprayed with conventional or conversion HVLP spray guns. Once you mix in the components to the polyester resin, you have a limited amount of time to spray the finish before the material begins to harden. This is called "hot potting." The reaction of the material is exothermic, meaning it creates heat as the reaction is taking place. If you have not mixed the components correctly, the finish will begin to gel very rapidly and in fact can harden to a bowling ball before you clean out your gun. Now you have a $400 paper weight. There is equipment that mixes the components as you spray, but the high cost makes such equipment suitable only for high production shops where they are spraying all day, every day.

  10. #60

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by wr_stix View Post
    from a good source..

    Polyester Finishes
    Cost: $$$$$

    Polyester, not to be confused with polyurethane, is what is used by most professional guitar builders and drum manufacturers. It is a POST catalyzed finished, meaning you must add components to the basic resin in order for the finish to harden. For some polyesters, you add a cobalt chemical and MEKP (Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide, same stuff that is used in fiberglass boat building). Polyester is very expensive and tricky to work with. I must add here that I owe thanks to Bill Detamore at Pork Pie for his guidance and advice when I first started using it at Black Swamp.

    Polyester has a very high solids content, is able to be built up to a very thick film, yet does not shrink over time (when mixed properly). It fully cures within 24 hours. This thick film lets you sand the finish smooth and buff to a high gloss luster. The finish is extremely heat resistant, so it can withstand the heat created by industrial buffing machines (also called a buffing jack). Polyester is much more heavy bodied than other finishes, but can still be sprayed with conventional or conversion HVLP spray guns. Once you mix in the components to the polyester resin, you have a limited amount of time to spray the finish before the material begins to harden. This is called "hot potting." The reaction of the material is exothermic, meaning it creates heat as the reaction is taking place. If you have not mixed the components correctly, the finish will begin to gel very rapidly and in fact can harden to a bowling ball before you clean out your gun. Now you have a $400 paper weight. There is equipment that mixes the components as you spray, but the high cost makes such equipment suitable only for high production shops where they are spraying all day, every day.
    Very much like clear-coating in auto painting. I would mix the clear-coat, the reducer (to make it sprayable) and the hardener on a scale (it has to be mixed properly or it will not harden or work right). It does get pretty warm when drying and hardening. Clear-coat can be wet sanded with 800-1000 grit then buffed to get the orange peel look out of it.
    TAMA- '2018 Star Walnut, ‘99 Starclassic Performer, '89 Granstar, ‘93 Rockstar
    Gretsch- 1963 Round Badge
    Zildjian
    Remo
    Vic Firth
    Speed Cobra Double Pedal Blackout Edition
    Speed Cobra Hi Hat
    Hardware- TAMA Roadpro
    Snare Drums- various TAMA, Gretsch, Ludwig, Leedy
    Mic's- Sennheiser, Shure, AKG

  11. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by Northern Redneck View Post
    I would NEVER use dishsoap on my car. It will cloud your paint.
    it only touches the clearcoat, how would it affect the paint?
    MAPEX MAFIA

  12. #62

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    i used to use an acrylic clear coat enhancer on my truck, wonder if it would work for my gorgeous m birch kit, in depth study will result!
    MAPEX MAFIA

  13. #63

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by chafey View Post
    it only touches the clearcoat, how would it affect the paint?
    Your clearcoat is part of your paint.

    I cant believe I had to explain that.

  14. #64

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    i consider the clear to be its own entity. you can re-clear things fairly easy. not so much the paint.
    MAPEX MAFIA

  15. #65

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    Ok to please certain people it will cloud your clearcoat.

  16. #66

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    What about your primer?

  17. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by chafey View Post
    it only touches the clearcoat, how would it affect the paint?
    Dish soap will fog and cloud the clear coat and it is difficult to remove the cloudiness; takes a lot of buffing and polishing. The detergents in the dish soap or other household cleaners will break down the polymers in the clear coat and can even pit the clear coat.

    Can't tell you how many times people would come into the auto body shop I worked in years ago and ask for their car to be washed, waxed and buffed due to the dullness and cloudiness from washing with dish soap in an effort to save money from not getting car wash. The clear coat on your painted/stained drums is much like the clear coat on your car so the same care in cleaning and shining your car should be the same you would use to clean and shine your drums. You wouldn't (nor should you) use products with ammonia or multi surface cleaners or furniture polish on your vehicle finish so why would you use them on your drum finish and hardware?

    Older drums (and cars) use an acrylic-based lacquer while newer (say within the last 5 years) use a water-based lacquer. Each lacquer requires certain conditioners to keep it shiny and playable. Believe it or not, while they are hard and do protect the paint under it, they also have a certain amount of playability or "softness" to them. Over time, if not conditioned (waxed with a good quality wax) they will dull, become brittle, shrink and crack.

    So, to clean very dirty drums, use a somewhat weak mixture of good carwash in warm water and use a lint free rag and ring the rag out very well. Then use another damp rag with only water to go over the drum. Then dry and use a good quality wax and buff. Most drums will only need a damp cloth with no soap and a wax and buff.
    Last edited by drumsetsnide; 11-19-2012 at 07:19 PM.
    TAMA- '2018 Star Walnut, ‘99 Starclassic Performer, '89 Granstar, ‘93 Rockstar
    Gretsch- 1963 Round Badge
    Zildjian
    Remo
    Vic Firth
    Speed Cobra Double Pedal Blackout Edition
    Speed Cobra Hi Hat
    Hardware- TAMA Roadpro
    Snare Drums- various TAMA, Gretsch, Ludwig, Leedy
    Mic's- Sennheiser, Shure, AKG

  18. #68

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by inthpktplayer View Post
    I guess my wonder on this is why would anyone's drums get so dirty that you'd need anything more than a soft dry cloth to wipe them down? Easily gets the dust and fingerprints off.
    if your band smokes, leaves alot of gunk on the drums
    MAPEX MAFIA

  19. #69

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by drumsetsnide View Post
    Dish soap will fog and cloud the clear coat and it is difficult to remove the cloudiness; takes a lot of buffing and polishing. The detergents in the dish soap or other household cleaners will break down the polymers in the clear coat and can even pit the clear coat.

    Can't tell you how many times people would come into the auto body shop I worked in years ago and ask for their car to be washed, waxed and buffed due to the dullness and cloudiness from washing with dish soap in an effort to save money from not getting car wash. The clear coat on your painted/stained drums is much like the clear coat on your car so the same care in cleaning and shining your car should be the same you would use to clean and shine your drums. You wouldn't (nor should you) use products with ammonia or multi surface cleaners or furniture polish on your vehicle finish so why would you use them on your drum finish and hardware?

    Older drums (and cars) use an acrylic-based lacquer while newer (say within the last 5 years) use a water-based lacquer. Each lacquer requires certain conditioners to keep it shiny and playable. Believe it or not, while they are hard and do protect the paint under it, they also have a certain amount of playability or "softness" to them. Over time, if not conditioned (waxed with a good quality wax) they will dull, become brittle, shrink and crack.

    So, to clean very dirty drums, use a somewhat weak mixture of good carwash in warm water and use a lint free rag and ring the rag out very well. Then use another damp rag with only water to go over the drum. Then dry and use a good quality wax and buff. Most drums will only need a damp cloth with no soap and a wax and buff.
    i used to use a something that would build up a polymer layer on the clear coat on my truck, would that work well for the clear coat on drums?
    MAPEX MAFIA

  20. #70

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    Quote Originally Posted by chafey View Post
    i used to use a something that would build up a polymer layer on the clear coat on my truck, would that work well for the clear coat on drums?
    Most likely.

    Any quality automotive wax will work well.

    I know the guys at the drum shop use Mothers carnauba wax on lacquer shells.
    TAMA- '2018 Star Walnut, ‘99 Starclassic Performer, '89 Granstar, ‘93 Rockstar
    Gretsch- 1963 Round Badge
    Zildjian
    Remo
    Vic Firth
    Speed Cobra Double Pedal Blackout Edition
    Speed Cobra Hi Hat
    Hardware- TAMA Roadpro
    Snare Drums- various TAMA, Gretsch, Ludwig, Leedy
    Mic's- Sennheiser, Shure, AKG

  21. #71

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    Default Re: Cleaning lacquer shells

    it wasnt a wax, just some clear coat treatment. wish i could remember who made it . doh
    MAPEX MAFIA

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