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Thread: Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

  1. #1

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    Default Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

    Earlier this year, I bought an old Speed King for $25. It was in pretty nice condition, but I couldn't resist the thought of tearing it apart and seeing what I can do with it, LOL. Here it is when I drug it home..


    I spent a couple hours disassembling it and cleaning it up. A few seconds of heat from a torch, and the bearing caps literally fall right out. A spray can of carb cleaner and an oil gallery brush was all it took to clean out all the old, hard grease. Here's all the (now clean) parts, ready for reconstruction...


    I spent an hour at the hardware store with digital calipers, picking out some nylon bushings, washers, roll pins and a few assorted nuts & bolts. Here's the pile of new parts to be added. Total cost was about $4.00...


    Tomorrow I'll begin the rebuild. I'll try to post detail pics...just in case someone wants to try something similar, they'll have a better idea of how these old gems are constructed.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  2. #2

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    Very excited to see how it turns out!
    Quote Originally Posted by rickthedrummer View Post
    There is intelligent life out there. The problem is that there isn't any here.

    -Mike

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

    You got my interest! How did you get the little roll pins out?
    Last edited by slinglander; 08-26-2014 at 03:06 PM. Reason: added text
    SONOR 6 pc Special Edition 3007's red maple, old Pearl Brass 14x6 FF snare, Yamaha Tour Custom maple 8 pc., Tama 4 pc., honey amber B/B, Ludwig Supralite chrome 14x6.5 steel snare, Paiste, Saluda & Zildjian
    Loaned out Slingerland upgraded 4 pc 1963 black, wrapped maple + 14" Pearl birch FT
    The Almighty Speed King pedal, Speed Cobra, Sonor Single

    http://www.screaminmelinas.com
    http://www.facebook.com/DerailedRockers/

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by slinglander View Post
    You got my interest! How did you get the little roll pins out?
    Just used a punch of the appropriate diameter.....tapped 'em right out. Been working on cars and building engines for almost 30yrs......I have LOTS of tools! Some in fact, I don't remember what they're for.

    After messing with it for an hour, I've decided not to go with the nylon bushing conversion on the foot board pivot. Ludwig used 1/4"ID X 5/16"OD brass bushings pressed into each side of the foot board. All the "slop" is wear in the bushings, and there's not much meat around the holes to drill them out big enough to use a nylon bushing of any significant wall thickness. If I go smaller on the axle, then the 1/4" holes in the steel base plate will be sloppy. I think it would be more robust if I just replace the brass and drill some lube holes to allow easy and frequent lubrication.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  5. #5

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    Awesome thread....very helpful!! Subscribing to this!!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by N2Bluz View Post

    After messing with it for an hour, I've decided not to go with the nylon bushing conversion on the foot board pivot. Ludwig used 1/4"ID X 5/16"OD brass bushings pressed into each side of the foot board. All the "slop" is wear in the bushings, and there's not much meat around the holes to drill them out big enough to use a nylon bushing of any significant wall thickness. If I go smaller on the axle, then the 1/4" holes in the steel base plate will be sloppy. I think it would be more robust if I just replace the brass and drill some lube holes to allow easy and frequent lubrication.
    That foot board pivot is a major headache on alot of the vintage Speed King pedals. Most of the time, the brass bushings are long gone and the pivot holes get so worn that it feels like its going to come apart. I had a friend in metal fabrication suggest that I weld the holes over, then re-drill, add new bushings and call it a done deal. Mine isn't at that point, but it didn't sound like a bad idea, to me.
    "You can never legislate stupidity, because there is no power in this world that can prevent it."-My Dad after watching his golf partner trying to hit a ball through a grove of trees.

  7. #7

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    Here's what the bushings look like in mine...

    The brass bushings are wore completely through on the top side, but the bore in the aluminum footboard appears to still be unscathed and round. I think it's an excellent candidate for new bushings. I might even smear a very thin coat of JB Weld on the OD of the bushings before I press them in. That should fill any irregularities in the bore and help provide support behind the bushings.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  8. #8

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    Nice work on finding replacements at hardware store

  9. #9

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    Default Re: Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

    Time for a few more updates;

    The old brass bushings popped right out with a tap from a hammer and punch. The bore of the aluminum footboard was still round and in great shape. All I had to do was de-burr and polish the edges as gently tap the new 1/4x3/16x3/4 bushings into place. I left them slightly extended on the inside of the ears and cut the excess bushing material off flush with the outside. The purpose of this was to locate the floating heel plate solid and keep it from moving side-to-side along the axle. Combined with installation of the retaining screw and washer, this all locks the floating heel plate solid in the long board position....very solid. No more rattling heel plate.


    More updates to follow....
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  10. #10

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    Default Re: Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

    Here's what the "new" hinge pin will be...a 1/4-28 grade 8 hex head cap screw (bolt). The grade 8 will be much harder than the original soft steel hinge pin, and thus, shouldn't bend or wear out like the original. I polished the shoulder section (where the bushings will sit) to further reduce friction. The 1/4" diameter is the same as original. I found that the fine thread bolt in 3-1/2" length with 2 washers on each side places the start of the threads in the perfect location just under the last washer. This allows the flanges of the base bracket to sit on the smooth shoulder section of the bolt

    I'm using a nylon-insert locknut to hold everything together. The fine thread also gives a more precise adjustment of the hinge bolt. I'll cut the excess threads off when I'm done and it's all greased up and assembled. Notice the near-mirror polish on the foot board. I also made sure that casting flash and any place of metal-to-metal contact was ground & polished smooth. Dremel tools ROCK.

    This part has turned out very well. The slop and wobble of the footboard was reduced by 99.5%. It feels extremely smooth, tight and solid. Best of all, it can be easily taken apart and greased or if needed. I like the fact that there is no plastic bushings to break or wear out. I would rather have a built-to-last "all metal" hinge that squeaks when it needs lubed....as opposed to a silent one that may break. More to follow...
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  11. #11

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    Default Re: Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

    nice rebuild of an old faithful pedal, grew up playing speed kings.
    Premier XPK Drums
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  12. #12

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    Thanks! I'm not even half done. I'm still working on polishing the cams & pushrods right now. Then, some simple mods to the rocker linkage.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Bringing a Speed King back up to speed

    For those who are unfamiliar with the workings of the Speed King, here's a pic that shows the basic design;

    The cam stubs on each side of the rocker assembly have an offset pin as retainer flange. When the rocker assembly rotates, the offset pin presses down against the top of the pushrods. The pushrods are then forced down into the towers against the force of a compression spring located in the tower. The football shaped flanges on the ends of the cams are what hold the rocker assembly centered between the towers. Very robust & simple, but lots of sliding friction. The cam pins slide across the top of the pushrods, the retaining flanges slide against the sides of the pushrods....and the pushrods slide against the wall of the tower bore. Tomorrow, I'll begin polishing all these surfaces in an attempt to reduce the internal friction as much as possible.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  14. #14

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    So why are they football shaped flanges and not round? They don't act as offset cams or do they?
    SONOR 6 pc Special Edition 3007's red maple, old Pearl Brass 14x6 FF snare, Yamaha Tour Custom maple 8 pc., Tama 4 pc., honey amber B/B, Ludwig Supralite chrome 14x6.5 steel snare, Paiste, Saluda & Zildjian
    Loaned out Slingerland upgraded 4 pc 1963 black, wrapped maple + 14" Pearl birch FT
    The Almighty Speed King pedal, Speed Cobra, Sonor Single

    http://www.screaminmelinas.com
    http://www.facebook.com/DerailedRockers/

  15. #15

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    Because the entire cam stub assembly must pass through the bore of the bearing....that's my guess. The flanges don't do anything except act as a guide rail and help hold everything in place.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  16. #16

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    Got to spend some more time on the SK today. The top edge around the bore of the pushrods tubes was pretty sharp. Since the pushrods rub across this edge, I decided to smooth it out and bevel it with my Dremel.


    The second pic is the "after" pic. I polished the pushrods with 1000 grit, #0000 steel wool and a buffing wheel.

    I also polished the cam stubs the same. I then used 1000 grit paper wrapped around a long, skinny screwdriver to polish the bores of the pushrod tubes. Unfortunately, that was much harder than it sounds, and I wasn't able to polish the tube bores as good as I had hoped.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  17. #17

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    Now on to the rocker assembly....
    The end of the lever arm and pin where the linkage connects was pretty wore. The original pin was worn out & bent. The ears were slightly bent as well and very rough on the inside from displaced metal. First, I cleaned then up with the carbide bit and sanded the inside surface of the ears until smooth.

    Next, a few sharp taps with a hammer to straighten the ears. You can tell when they're straight, because the pin holes in each ear will be aligned and the roll pin can be installed and removed easily. This will also reduce the side-to-side wiggle in the linkage.

    I decided to install a thick wall nylon bushing at this point. In order to fit the bushing, I had to use a screwdriver to spread the loop on the linkage apart far enough to install the bushing. Once installed, I used sand paper to file the width of the bushing down for a perfect fit between the ears on the rocker assembly.

    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  18. #18

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    I reassembled the linkage to the rocker assembly using a hard steel roll pin instead of the soft steel rivet that Ludwig used...making sure the pin extended all the way through both ears for maximum strength. I also filled the bushing with SuperLube PTFE grease.


    Everything worked out well. The linkage is very solid, moves very freely and and should be squeak-free thanks to the nylon bushing. The best part is that most all of the slop and side-to-side play in the linkage has been eliminated. Less slop means more of the force and motion is directed where it's supposed to go...and that means a quicker and more sensitive feel!
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  19. #19

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    Will you retain the clip on the footboard linkage or maybe use some more permanent system?
    SONOR 6 pc Special Edition 3007's red maple, old Pearl Brass 14x6 FF snare, Yamaha Tour Custom maple 8 pc., Tama 4 pc., honey amber B/B, Ludwig Supralite chrome 14x6.5 steel snare, Paiste, Saluda & Zildjian
    Loaned out Slingerland upgraded 4 pc 1963 black, wrapped maple + 14" Pearl birch FT
    The Almighty Speed King pedal, Speed Cobra, Sonor Single

    http://www.screaminmelinas.com
    http://www.facebook.com/DerailedRockers/

  20. #20

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    Probably leave it as the original design for now. There's not enough extra room around the pin to install any significant bushing. Only real way I can think of to eliminate the clip on the footboard is to construct a solid one-piece linkage out of nylon/plastic. That would make it no longer collapsible.....so I would probably make a solid base plate as well. I may do that, but for now, I'm gonna try it like it is. I have the thing basically finished and have taken it on a test drive already. It's fabulous. I'll post more later today.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  21. #21

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    Terrific!
    SONOR 6 pc Special Edition 3007's red maple, old Pearl Brass 14x6 FF snare, Yamaha Tour Custom maple 8 pc., Tama 4 pc., honey amber B/B, Ludwig Supralite chrome 14x6.5 steel snare, Paiste, Saluda & Zildjian
    Loaned out Slingerland upgraded 4 pc 1963 black, wrapped maple + 14" Pearl birch FT
    The Almighty Speed King pedal, Speed Cobra, Sonor Single

    http://www.screaminmelinas.com
    http://www.facebook.com/DerailedRockers/

  22. #22

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    awesome job modifying and rebuilding the Speed King, many years ago think late 60's early 70's that was the pedal to have.


    Jim
    Premier XPK Drums
    10, 12, 13, 14, 16 Suspended toms
    22 bass drum
    5 x 14 snare
    Premier Hardware
    Offset Double Pedal
    Sabian, Meniel cymbals
    Tama Metalworks 6.5 x 14" Black Nickel snare
    Ahead Drum Cases

  23. #23

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    Success! For all intensive purposes, the refurbishment is done. Just for kicks, I cut a small length of left over nylon bushing and installed it over the pin on the linkage end of the footboard. I was certain that it would be too big around and there wouldn't be enough clearance to allow the hook end of the linkage to be attached. Much to my amusement......the fit is perfect.
    The linkage hook literally "snaps" right into the end of the footboard. Best of all, it eliminated 100% of the remaining slop in the linkage.

    This old "Squeak King" feels fantastic. I would go as far as saying it is as good (maybe even better) than my new Pearl Demon Direct Drive in terms of response, sensitivity and feel. I'm astonished. Here are a few pics of the completed pedal;


    FYI- Krylon Hammered Finish in silver is an exact match to the original paint. I repainted the base plate, but the paint on the goal post assembly was in very nice shape, so I left it original. It still has the downfall of the baseplate clamp design, which I'll post about tomorrow. Since I'm working on a vintage Ludwig project bass drum, I decided to leave it alone for now. It fits the old Ludwig 1.75" wide wood hoop perfectly.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  24. #24

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    Better than the Pearl Demon? Wow!
    Great job!
    SONOR 6 pc Special Edition 3007's red maple, old Pearl Brass 14x6 FF snare, Yamaha Tour Custom maple 8 pc., Tama 4 pc., honey amber B/B, Ludwig Supralite chrome 14x6.5 steel snare, Paiste, Saluda & Zildjian
    Loaned out Slingerland upgraded 4 pc 1963 black, wrapped maple + 14" Pearl birch FT
    The Almighty Speed King pedal, Speed Cobra, Sonor Single

    http://www.screaminmelinas.com
    http://www.facebook.com/DerailedRockers/

  25. #25

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    Loving it all shined up and clean. Looks as good as new, if not better!
    ZildjianLeague/LP/Aquarian/Mapex/Pearl
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    RIP- Frank, Wolvie, Les Paul
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    Quote Originally Posted by amdrummer View Post
    if double bass is cheating then so is using two sticks

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