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Thread: ?? for you wrappers!

  1. #1

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    Default ?? for you wrappers!

    Well. I think it's time to wrap my old set. They're WFL and Ludwig single tension drums from 50's-60's era.

    I've chosen Silver Sparkle; probably go with Precision drums pre-cut wrap.

    I would like pointers and suggestions.

    They are currently not wrapped but one is laquered (checked and flaked with age) and two are painted.

    Does this needed to be completely removed for adhesion or simply roughed up with sand piper?

    Do you apply glue to the shell and the wrap or to the shell only?

    Do you glue all the way around or just in sections. (I'm not looking to ever wrap them again, this will be it)

    The bass drum is a 26" and the wrap will not go around in one strip? What's the best way to deal with this?

    How do you ensure straightness as you are wrapping around?

    I can probably think of more.

    all the best...

  2. #2

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    I haven't done the wrap on, only the wrap off, but my biggest worry in your shoes would be shell size. Depending on how you put on the wrap, and how thick it is (I've heard silver sparkle is pretty thick) you could make the shell bigger and make the head not fit on so well. Generally shells that are going to be wrapped are a bit smaller so that the head can fit after wrap.
    If I were you I would take a quick look at how much room there is between the shell and the rim of the head as it now. If there isn't much room there at all, you may have trouble.
    Good luck on the project! I've been wanting to find some old Ludwigs and do this exact thing.
    Tama Swingstar 3 piece 1993 (refinished wine red)
    Ludwig Breakbeats (Azure Sparkle)
    1964 Ludwig Supra
    Old no-name Luan 12x8 tom/snare (refinished wine red)
    Mapex MPX 14"x5.5" snare (refinished in gloss black)
    Pearl Vision 14"x14" ft/snare (refinished wine red)
    Aquarian heads
    14" Sabian HHX Stage Hats
    15" Meinl Extra Dry Thin Hats
    18" Meinl Vintage Trash Crash
    18" Wuhan China
    18" Thin Zildjian Crash
    18" Thin Zildjian Crash with rivets
    19" Meinl Extra Dry Thin Crash
    22" Istanbul Mehmet Legend Dark Ride
    23" Matt Bettis Dry Ride


  3. #3

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    He brings up a good point about the head fit.....especially on older shells, which can be a problem. You can probably ask Precision all your wrap questions. I'd say the shells should be sanded as close to bare wood as possible for the best adhesion and smoothest look. You could always go the double-sided tape route as well. What about just strip the old finish, sand and then Tung oil or tinted Tung oil?
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  4. #4

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    Thanks. Very good point. I went out to the shed to check. The drums are so old that they originally had calf heads. They were a little snug but since I'm going with modern heads, there shouldn't be a problem as the collars are wider than on the calf's. I rested a shell on the bench with a Remo head in place and was able to insert a brochure approx 1/16" thick in between the shell and the head collar.

    I'm looking for Silver Sparkle as opposed to the Silver Glitter which is thick, brittle and harder to work with.

    I want to give them a more kitchy 60's look and more ruggedness so I have no need to case them. That's why I'm going for wrap and not the natural wood look. Also some authenticity to the times. Silver Sparkle was a popular Ludwig wrap in the early 60's.

    all the best...
    Last edited by kay-gee; 02-03-2015 at 07:32 AM.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    1. Most shells that were never wrapped will be a bit larger than shells that are wrapped.
    So if wrapped the heads will be very tight.
    2. Yes you can wrap over paint or lacquered , just ruff it up with sandpaper,
    make sure there are no dings or high spots.
    3. 4. Glue both surfaces all of it. Make sure to scuff up the back of the wrap
    too. It is very smooth, so you want something for the glue to hold on to.
    5. Most wraps only come 54" long. So any drum over 16" will have to have two seams.
    6. You need a very flat surface. I draw a pencil line on the drum where I want the seam. (usually under the lugs for extra holding power) With a 2" overlap.
    Make sure you scuff both sides of the overlap too.
    Then I just stand up the wrap start at the pencil mark and slowly work the wrap down. I also use a rubber roller to press as I work around the drum.

    *side note*
    This is for wrap that comes about 1/2" wider than the drum.
    he excess is trimmed off with a scissors and than hand filed to smooth the edge.
    I did not trip and fall. I attacked the floor and I believe I am winning.

  6. #6

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    Bum Wrap Drum Company has a really nice copy of the Ludwig Citrus Mod. I think that they scanned it from an actual drum from the time period. While it won't be as thick of a wrap that you'll get from precision, it's roughly half the cost. You could order a sample just to see what you think.

    (Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with Bum Wrap; however, I have had positive results from their products)



    Last edited by porkpieguy; 02-03-2015 at 09:45 AM.

  7. #7

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    Either way, I think that you can always get about 1/8" cut off the top and bottom to insure a good head fit, and you won't see the "gap" after heads are put on.

    Here's a pic showing the top and bottom wrap gaps on my rack tom:







    Here's the after. Heads fit nicely with not gap to show:

  8. #8

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    You might try Evans heads (the new 360 design). They are supposed to be a little larger. Also, you could trim the wrap back farther from the edge (like an 1/8" as opposed to the standard 1/16")......so the wrap doesn't actually protrude up under the head collar. You could paint the bare wood silver along the bearing edge. I doubt you would be able to tell, once the heads are installed. Maybe just buy a small piece of wrap first for the small tom and try it with double sided tape. Then you can experiment and know what you'll need to do for the rest of the shells.

    These are just some ideas to chew on. I bet those old shells are pretty thin Mahogany? Sounds like an awesome kit! I still have my 1920's model L&S 28" bass. Id like to find some old 3ply mahogany toms and make a vintage kit. Except, I want to do the Duco replica wrap that Bum Wrap offers.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  9. #9

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    If you are buying your wrap from Precision drums, they do include instructions on wrap installation.
    I did not trip and fall. I attacked the floor and I believe I am winning.

  10. #10

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    Quote Originally Posted by PopsOldSkins View Post
    1. Most shells that were never wrapped will be a bit larger than shells that are wrapped.
    So if wrapped the heads will be very tight.
    2. Yes you can wrap over paint or lacquered , just ruff it up with sandpaper,
    make sure there are no dings or high spots.
    3. 4. Glue both surfaces all of it. Make sure to scuff up the back of the wrap
    too. It is very smooth, so you want something for the glue to hold on to.
    5. Most wraps only come 54" long. So any drum over 16" will have to have two seams.
    6. You need a very flat surface. I draw a pencil line on the drum where I want the seam. (usually under the lugs for extra holding power) With a 2" overlap.
    Make sure you scuff both sides of the overlap too.
    Then I just stand up the wrap start at the pencil mark and slowly work the wrap down. I also use a rubber roller to press as I work around the drum.

    *side note*
    This is for wrap that comes about 1/2" wider than the drum.
    he excess is trimmed off with a scissors and than hand filed to smooth the edge.
    Thanks Pops. That is some very valuable information. I guess for the two seams, it would be better to have them closer to the bottom so not so visible, right?

    all the best...

  11. #11

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    Thanks Pork Pie. I checked out Bum Wrap but didn't see silver sparkle. I'm ordering the wrap pre cut anyway so it should be easy to just have them take off another 1/4" to be on the safe side. The less trimming and cutting I have to do the better...LOL

    I love the way your drums turned out. The citrus wrap is interesting as well.

    all the best...

  12. #12

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    Default Re: ?? for you wrappers!

    Quote Originally Posted by N2Bluz View Post
    You might try Evans heads (the new 360 design). They are supposed to be a little larger. Also, you could trim the wrap back farther from the edge (like an 1/8" as opposed to the standard 1/16")......so the wrap doesn't actually protrude up under the head collar. You could paint the bare wood silver along the bearing edge. I doubt you would be able to tell, once the heads are installed. Maybe just buy a small piece of wrap first for the small tom and try it with double sided tape. Then you can experiment and know what you'll need to do for the rest of the shells.

    These are just some ideas to chew on. I bet those old shells are pretty thin Mahogany? Sounds like an awesome kit! I still have my 1920's model L&S 28" bass. Id like to find some old 3ply mahogany toms and make a vintage kit. Except, I want to do the Duco replica wrap that Bum Wrap offers.
    I'm all for simply the wrap a little narrower and winging it. I doubt there will be any gap when cranked down. I've got Remo Fiber-skns to put on. I want to get as true to the old time sound as I can get without the calf skin hassles. I'm also ordering Ludwig weather master heads for the reso's.

    By close inspection, I'm thinking the bass and 13 tom are single ply mahogany wrapped around leaving an elevated seam. These were the cheaper school model of marching drums I believe. They're all wood hooped and single tension and sound great!

    all the best...

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