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Thread: Re-finish time

  1. #26

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    I had it looking good, it's just the way the paint came out of the can, it had dark stripes where the pattern laid. I even overlapped with the same results. So, I guess it's time to dust off the old spray gun after I get the other shells stripped and primed. I have a little experience with it as I painted my bike a few years ago. I know it sprays great and I can get better results with it. Stay tuned.
    1976 Tama Imperialstar Saturn 12+1 Platina6,8,10,12,13,14,15,16 concert toms, 16, 18 floor toms, 2-22x18 Bass drums.
    1971 5x14 Ludwig acrolite snare
    Tama metalworks snare 13x6
    DW collectors Maple Blue Glass7x8, 8x10, 9x12 rack toms, 11x14, 13x16 hanging toms, 18x23 bass, 8 and 12 timbale toms, 5.5x10 Ten and Six All Maple snare, 5.5x14 Supersolid snare, DW 9000 rack system, DW 5002 Double bass pedal, DW 5000 Hi-Hat stand, DW 9000 Snare stand.
    Sabian Xs20 cymbals: 16 & 18 crash, 20 ride, 14 hats, 8 splash, 18 china.
    Zildjian cymbals: 21 ride, 15 hats. All '70's era.

  2. #27

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    Hmmm...that sucks. I use a lot of Duplicolor paints in automotive applications and it's always performed well. Youll be better off using a spray gun with that many shells to paint anyway. Can't wait to see the final results!
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  3. #28

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    I had poor results using a spray can on bare shells too. I got lucky...just used clear coat, no paint. Looking forward to seeing your hard work. Good luck.






  4. #29

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    I know at first you were against rewrapping because of tightness with the heads. But now that you have removed the original wrap you couls go with one of the new thinner wraps and either have them cut a 1/4 narrower on each side or you could trim a 1/4 inch off yourself. I believe you will have a much better looking set this way than trying to paint the drums. It would be a lot less hassle too.

  5. #30

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    Quote Originally Posted by john gerrard View Post
    I know at first you were against rewrapping because of tightness with the heads. But now that you have removed the original wrap you couls go with one of the new thinner wraps and either have them cut a 1/4 narrower on each side or you could trim a 1/4 inch off yourself. I believe you will have a much better looking set this way than trying to paint the drums. It would be a lot less hassle too.
    I thought about wrap and decided to paint them. My DW's are wrapped as well as this kit. Just wanting a paint this time. I'm in no hurry, so I'm hoping to do a pretty decent job. Now if the tom had not been two different types of wood, I would have probably stained them. I always liked the looks of the old Tama Superstar drums. Yes, I could have bought a veneer and stained that, but like I said, I think I want a painted set this time.
    1976 Tama Imperialstar Saturn 12+1 Platina6,8,10,12,13,14,15,16 concert toms, 16, 18 floor toms, 2-22x18 Bass drums.
    1971 5x14 Ludwig acrolite snare
    Tama metalworks snare 13x6
    DW collectors Maple Blue Glass7x8, 8x10, 9x12 rack toms, 11x14, 13x16 hanging toms, 18x23 bass, 8 and 12 timbale toms, 5.5x10 Ten and Six All Maple snare, 5.5x14 Supersolid snare, DW 9000 rack system, DW 5002 Double bass pedal, DW 5000 Hi-Hat stand, DW 9000 Snare stand.
    Sabian Xs20 cymbals: 16 & 18 crash, 20 ride, 14 hats, 8 splash, 18 china.
    Zildjian cymbals: 21 ride, 15 hats. All '70's era.

  6. #31

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    Quote Originally Posted by late8 View Post
    I had poor results using a spray can on bare shells too. I got lucky...just used clear coat, no paint. Looking forward to seeing your hard work. Good luck.





    Late,

    I really like the way your Ludwig kit looks. If you decide to go a little further on that finish, here's how you could improve it even more:

    1) (Please note: the following process assumes that you used clear lacquer spray. If you used acrylic enamel, you must recoat strictly within the time frame specified on the can. Recoating at the wrong time can cause severe problems.) Sand the existing finish with 180 paper, then 220 to further smooth the shell. Apply four more light coats of clear lacquer, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly. Sand again as before, but graduate all the up to 360 grit paper. Spray four to six more light coats. Once dry, use a buffing compound and buffer with foam pad (or an electric drill) and buff to a gloss. This results in a very nice, glossy finish.

    2) If you prefer a "matt" finish, do the exact same steps as above, but substitute "matt" or "semi-gloss" clear lacquer instead of the glossy lacquer. This will result in a very natural-looking finish, similar to a nice smooth shell finished with oil, but will be much harder and robust.

    At this point, that really nice Ludwig is right on the edge of looking truly professional and expensive. A little more work will work wonders!

    GeeDeeEmm

  7. #32

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    My "chrome" color wrap (OEM) on my first drum set (made by "Peace") began to pull away from the shells in some spots. They call it delamination. I've used this set for many years and for many gigs. It has been my practice set and my "go to" set for many years now.
    I decided that instead of having it rewrapped in the normal fashion and running the risk of it happening again someday that instead, I'd have them coated (outside area of the shell only) in Line-X color coat truck bed liner. That stuff is really tough and should make the shells nearly indestructible. The cost is $450.00 for the bass drum, a floor tom, and two mounted toms.
    They'll be ready today.. I chose a deep blue (Dodge blue) color to contrast with the chrome mini lugs and hoops. I can't wait to pick them up. I'll post photos soon.
    My other drum set is a PDP red fade to black, and is in pristine condition. I use the PDP's for gigs that require a more sophisticated and professional appearance. My Line-X set will continue to be my "go to" set for things like open mic venues and other low paying gigs, and also my practice set.
    I'm curious if anyone else here has done this?

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Montreuil View Post
    My "chrome" color wrap (OEM) on my first drum set (made by "Peace") began to pull away from the shells in some spots. They call it delamination. I've used this set for many years and for many gigs. It has been my practice set and my "go to" set for many years now.
    I decided that instead of having it rewrapped in the normal fashion and running the risk of it happening again someday that instead, I'd have them coated (outside area of the shell only) in Line-X color coat truck bed liner. That stuff is really tough and should make the shells nearly indestructible. The cost is $450.00 for the bass drum, a floor tom, and two mounted toms.
    They'll be ready today.. I chose a deep blue (Dodge blue) color to contrast with the chrome mini lugs and hoops. I can't wait to pick them up. I'll post photos soon.
    My other drum set is a PDP red fade to black, and is in pristine condition. I use the PDP's for gigs that require a more sophisticated and professional appearance. My Line-X set will continue to be my "go to" set for things like open mic venues and other low paying gigs, and also my practice set.
    I'm curious if anyone else here has done this?
    I have a line x coating in my truck. Very heavy duty. I don't think it will effect the resonance too much.
    Quote Originally Posted by rickthedrummer View Post
    There is intelligent life out there. The problem is that there isn't any here.

    -Mike

  9. #34

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    I've used the cheap spray can version of truck bed coating. I believe it was Rustoleum Professional Grade. I used it on some tool carts (metal) and also on the outside of wood speaker enclosures. It works very well.....as long as you want black. On my jungle kit, I used that grey speckled & textured automotive trunk paint on the inside of the shells. It looks/feels very similar to the Granitone paint that Ludwig and Tama used in the 70's & 80's. The shells were very cheap Luan, but they sound fantastic....much better than without the coating. I'll be using it on any other cheap Luan shells in the future
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by gdmoore28 View Post
    Late,

    I really like the way your Ludwig kit looks. If you decide to go a little further on that finish, here's how you could improve it even more:

    1) (Please note: the following process assumes that you used clear lacquer spray. If you used acrylic enamel, you must recoat strictly within the time frame specified on the can. Recoating at the wrong time can cause severe problems.) Sand the existing finish with 180 paper, then 220 to further smooth the shell. Apply four more light coats of clear lacquer, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly. Sand again as before, but graduate all the up to 360 grit paper. Spray four to six more light coats. Once dry, use a buffing compound and buffer with foam pad (or an electric drill) and buff to a gloss. This results in a very nice, glossy finish.

    2) If you prefer a "matt" finish, do the exact same steps as above, but substitute "matt" or "semi-gloss" clear lacquer instead of the glossy lacquer. This will result in a very natural-looking finish, similar to a nice smooth shell finished with oil, but will be much harder and robust.

    At this point, that really nice Ludwig is right on the edge of looking truly professional and expensive. A little more work will work wonders!

    GeeDeeEmm
    Thanks Gee! I found myself out of time and money to complete this project. I left it with the bare minimum of 6 coats of clear coat from a 6 cans of Mini Wax Urethane clear coat as a quick and cheaper solution. I've often thought about continuing on with this but left it as is for now.

  11. #36

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    Quote Originally Posted by gdmoore28 View Post
    Late,

    I really like the way your Ludwig kit looks. If you decide to go a little further on that finish, here's how you could improve it even more:

    1) (Please note: the following process assumes that you used clear lacquer spray. If you used acrylic enamel, you must recoat strictly within the time frame specified on the can. Recoating at the wrong time can cause severe problems.) Sand the existing finish with 180 paper, then 220 to further smooth the shell. Apply four more light coats of clear lacquer, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly. Sand again as before, but graduate all the up to 360 grit paper. Spray four to six more light coats. Once dry, use a buffing compound and buffer with foam pad (or an electric drill) and buff to a gloss. This results in a very nice, glossy finish.

    2) If you prefer a "matt" finish, do the exact same steps as above, but substitute "matt" or "semi-gloss" clear lacquer instead of the glossy lacquer. This will result in a very natural-looking finish, similar to a nice smooth shell finished with oil, but will be much harder and robust.

    At this point, that really nice Ludwig is right on the edge of looking truly professional and expensive. A little more work will work wonders!

    GeeDeeEmm
    I have a set of bare 3-ply Ludwig shells (13/16/22) just like Rich's. I'm planning on doing the clear finish process just as you describe. Only exception being an initial coat of sealer and some tinted wood grain filler. It's a lot easier to get a smooth finish on Mahogany if the grain is filled.
    -Brian

    "Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"

    Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!

    "I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham

  12. #37

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    Hey nice project you got going on OP. Looks like you have a pretty good shell to work with, on the inside it seems to be relatively flawless, so that's great - less overall work and materials to put into it.
    ZildjianLeague/LP/Aquarian/Mapex/Pearl
    Snares: 4
    RIP- Frank, Wolvie, Les Paul
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  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by N2Bluz View Post
    I have a set of bare 3-ply Ludwig shells (13/16/22) just like Rich's. I'm planning on doing the clear finish process just as you describe. Only exception being an initial coat of sealer and some tinted wood grain filler. It's a lot easier to get a smooth finish on Mahogany if the grain is filled.
    Excellent point. I didn't mention filler or sealer in Rich's case because sealer must be applied to the wood before any further work commences. Please keep us updated on your progress with your shells. It'd be really cool if you could document the entire process here for the benefit of others who want to do the same.

    GeeDeeEmm

  14. #39

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    Just a little update......I have been too busy to work on my drums lately. Playing in two bands now and learning tons of new material. Hopefully I can start work on them again soon. Stay tuned folks..
    1976 Tama Imperialstar Saturn 12+1 Platina6,8,10,12,13,14,15,16 concert toms, 16, 18 floor toms, 2-22x18 Bass drums.
    1971 5x14 Ludwig acrolite snare
    Tama metalworks snare 13x6
    DW collectors Maple Blue Glass7x8, 8x10, 9x12 rack toms, 11x14, 13x16 hanging toms, 18x23 bass, 8 and 12 timbale toms, 5.5x10 Ten and Six All Maple snare, 5.5x14 Supersolid snare, DW 9000 rack system, DW 5002 Double bass pedal, DW 5000 Hi-Hat stand, DW 9000 Snare stand.
    Sabian Xs20 cymbals: 16 & 18 crash, 20 ride, 14 hats, 8 splash, 18 china.
    Zildjian cymbals: 21 ride, 15 hats. All '70's era.

  15. #40

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    Default Re: Re-finish time

    Quote Originally Posted by Montreuil View Post
    My "chrome" color wrap (OEM) on my first drum set (made by "Peace") began to pull away from the shells in some spots. They call it delamination. I've used this set for many years and for many gigs. It has been my practice set and my "go to" set for many years now.
    I decided that instead of having it rewrapped in the normal fashion and running the risk of it happening again someday that instead, I'd have them coated (outside area of the shell only) in Line-X color coat truck bed liner. That stuff is really tough and should make the shells nearly indestructible. The cost is $450.00 for the bass drum, a floor tom, and two mounted toms.
    They'll be ready today.. I chose a deep blue (Dodge blue) color to contrast with the chrome mini lugs and hoops. I can't wait to pick them up. I'll post photos soon.
    My other drum set is a PDP red fade to black, and is in pristine condition. I use the PDP's for gigs that require a more sophisticated and professional appearance. My Line-X set will continue to be my "go to" set for things like open mic venues and other low paying gigs, and also my practice set.
    I'm curious if anyone else here has done this?

    Never coated drums like that.

    But had all of the tin from my Harley "Rhino-lined"...............it turned out great, they made it smooth and clear coated over top of it...............couldn't scratch it.

    Best thing, it only cost a little over $200...........for the tanks, both fenders and bottom of the front fork legs.

    Of course, I didn't worry about tone on my scooter.

  16. #41

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    Shane, just a note to think on until you get back to it. With this bare Luan, or any mahogany, you have a lot of pores to fill in order to get a smooth finish. This is so labour intensive and with 12 drums, I hope you are in good shape. You mentioned the spray bomb not working, moving to an automotive spray gun will not change what is happening. The paint is going to adhere to the high spots and the low spots and will only continue to raise an uneven surface.
    You need to build up to get to a final smooth level surface. One way would be to get some spot putty. Essentially, this is thick primer. Great for small surface marks, not good for really big deep stuff. The other choice is to find some grain filler, personally, I just fill up the drum with Urethane spray, let it dry, then wet sand it down with 400 grit. Do this process 3 or 4 times, you should end up with a useable surface that can now be sprayed.
    click to see my kit re-veneer/finish
    http://www.drumchat.com/showthread.p...168#post379168

  17. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by signia fan View Post
    Shane, just a note to think on until you get back to it. With this bare Luan, or any mahogany, you have a lot of pores to fill in order to get a smooth finish. This is so labour intensive and with 12 drums, I hope you are in good shape. You mentioned the spray bomb not working, moving to an automotive spray gun will not change what is happening. The paint is going to adhere to the high spots and the low spots and will only continue to raise an uneven surface.
    You need to build up to get to a final smooth level surface. One way would be to get some spot putty. Essentially, this is thick primer. Great for small surface marks, not good for really big deep stuff. The other choice is to find some grain filler, personally, I just fill up the drum with Urethane spray, let it dry, then wet sand it down with 400 grit. Do this process 3 or 4 times, you should end up with a useable surface that can now be sprayed.
    Yeah, I'm thinking of using a light body filler to get the shells really smooth. Thanks for the input.
    1976 Tama Imperialstar Saturn 12+1 Platina6,8,10,12,13,14,15,16 concert toms, 16, 18 floor toms, 2-22x18 Bass drums.
    1971 5x14 Ludwig acrolite snare
    Tama metalworks snare 13x6
    DW collectors Maple Blue Glass7x8, 8x10, 9x12 rack toms, 11x14, 13x16 hanging toms, 18x23 bass, 8 and 12 timbale toms, 5.5x10 Ten and Six All Maple snare, 5.5x14 Supersolid snare, DW 9000 rack system, DW 5002 Double bass pedal, DW 5000 Hi-Hat stand, DW 9000 Snare stand.
    Sabian Xs20 cymbals: 16 & 18 crash, 20 ride, 14 hats, 8 splash, 18 china.
    Zildjian cymbals: 21 ride, 15 hats. All '70's era.

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