That’s pretty cool. No idea what year it is, but it may be worth reaching out to Yamaha directly. They may be able to assist.
Have you pulled the heads off? Is there and delamination of the plys?
I found this drum set for $100 today at a local thrift store. It's by Yamaha, made in Japan & it has a serial number that's only 4 digits long!?
It needs a good cleaning + there is some rust on the chrome.
What model & year is it?
Anything else about it would be appreciated.
Thanks
[IMG]MUSIC DRUM SET YAMAHA 1A_AAA by miamibeachcg, on Flickr, MUSIC DRUM SET YAMAHA 7AA by miamibeachcg, on Flickr, MUSIC DRUM SET YAMAHA 7AAA by miamibeachcg, on Flickr, MUSIC DRUM SET YAMAHA 7BAAA by miamibeachcg, on Flickr[/IMG]
That’s pretty cool. No idea what year it is, but it may be worth reaching out to Yamaha directly. They may be able to assist.
Have you pulled the heads off? Is there and delamination of the plys?
Looks 60's early 70's maybe.
70 ish
Yamaha DT-225 ?
Last edited by Olimpass; 01-19-2019 at 06:12 PM.
with some good tender loving care it could be a nice restore project for sure
I'm gonna take a guess and say it looks like a early '70s kit from the badge and the tom mount although the '69 catalog still features a consolette mount and the '78 kits features the newer clam shell/ ball mount:
1.jpg
From the 1969 Selmer UK Catalog:
4.jpg
6 ply rack tom 9 ply bass drum:
3.jpg
The '78 kit featured the ball mount:
5.jpg
Nice find!, score actually for just $100.
I've often wondered about how well old dried out woods hold up over the years... that if i played on an old wood snare or kit carefully not running it through the ringer that it would still have a good chance getting damaged anyway... cracking or splitting the wood.
Would putting some sort of oil back into the wood help or hurt it. Would tone be changed at all?
RDM/Damage Poets
UFiP TAMAHA Zildjian
REGAL TiP
AQUARIAN
In the guitar/violin world, the older the wood, the better. Supposedly, the age mellows the tone...something to do with the structure of the wood fibers, internal tension and vibration. If it’s dry, I would definitely apply tung oil, lemon oil or something similar, which typically does change the tone slightly. It usually brightens it a bit as it essentially increases The density.
-Brian
"Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"
Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!
"I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham
I'm gonna hijack this thread since the OP is MIA. I have 52 year old Ludwig 3 ply shells (Maple/Poplar/Mahogany) that look like they've been through hell and back but sound so full and thick you can cut the overtones with a "knife". There's hope for these Yammies if the shells were kept in a moisture free environment.
Rich, that’s one of the reasons that many consider vintage shells more desirable than new shells of similar material. Honestly, the quality of construction on the old Luddy shells was not near as good as modern ones...BUT... they sound great!
BTW- have you seen the new Ludwig 110th Van Buren kit?
B1CEA8B6-6C97-4F0B-AA74-997DF9EF28E8.jpg
Remind you of anything??
-Brian
"Too many crappy used drum stuff to list"
Play the SONG......not the DRUMS!!!
"I think that feeling is a lot more important than technique. It's all very well doing a triple paradiddle - but who's going to know you've done it? If you play technically you sound like everybody else. It's being original that counts." ~ John Bonham
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